It’s difficult not to notice the arrival of autumn, even if you’re still waiting for a summer that never was. The chestnuts are about to burst through their armoured shells, wild mushrooms are shyly poking their caps through the soil, and summer fruits are looking unhappy and getting pricier on the market stands. Today we’ll welcome the change of seasons with a recipe that makes the most of a traditionally autumnal vegetable, fennel, but has the lightness and playfulness of a summer dish.